Learn. Feed better. Live naturally.

One of the most common questions we hear at Earthwise Pet South Lamar is: "Is raw feeding really better for my dog?" The short answer is that for most pets, a species-appropriate raw diet can make a dramatic difference in energy, coat quality, digestion, and long-term health. But let's break down why — and how to do it safely.

What Is Raw Feeding?

Raw feeding means giving your dog or cat whole, minimally processed foods — raw meat, bones, and organs — rather than heavily cooked and extruded kibble. The concept is simple: feed pets closer to what their bodies evolved to digest. Dogs and cats are facultative carnivores. Their digestive systems are designed for protein and fat from animal sources, not starchy grain-based fillers.

There are several approaches to raw feeding, including BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food), prey model raw, and commercially prepared raw diets from brands like Bones & Co, Bravo, and Green Juju — all of which we carry here at the store.

The Benefits We See Every Day

After years of helping Austin pet parents make the switch, here's what our customers consistently report:

• Shinier, softer coat — reduced shedding is often one of the first things people notice within a few weeks.
• Better digestion — smaller, firmer stools (because more of the food is actually being absorbed).
• Higher energy and leaner muscle mass — especially noticeable in older dogs who seem to "wake up" again.
• Improved dental health — raw meaty bones are nature's toothbrush. Many raw-fed dogs need far fewer dental cleanings.
• Reduced allergies and skin issues — many chronic allergy cases resolve when common kibble fillers (corn, wheat, soy) are removed from the diet.

How to Transition Safely

The most important rule: don't switch cold turkey if your pet has been on kibble for a long time. Their digestive system needs time to adjust its enzyme balance. Here's the standard approach:

1. Days 1–3: Replace 25% of the current food with raw.
2. Days 4–6: Go 50/50.
3. Days 7–10: 75% raw, 25% old food.
4. Day 11+: Full raw diet.

Some pets — especially puppies, seniors, or those with sensitive stomachs — may need a slower transition over 3–4 weeks. Stop in and talk to our team if you have questions. We offer free nutrition consultations with every purchase.

Safe Handling Basics

Raw meat requires the same food safety practices you'd use for your own kitchen. Store raw pet food frozen until 1–2 days before use, thaw in the refrigerator (never at room temperature), wash bowls after every meal, and wash your hands. Reputable commercial raw brands are pathogen-tested — but basic hygiene always applies.

Walk into any grocery store or big-box pet retailer and you'll see bags screaming "premium," "natural," "balanced," and "veterinarian recommended." The problem? Most of these claims are marketing with no legal definition or regulation behind them. The bag looks great. What's inside often isn't.

Here's how to cut through the noise and actually evaluate what you're feeding your pet.

Start With the Ingredient List

Ingredients are listed by weight — the first few ingredients are what your pet is actually eating. You want to see a named animal protein first: chicken, beef, salmon, turkey, lamb. Not "poultry meal," not "meat by-products," not "animal digest."

• Good: "Chicken, chicken meal, sweet potato, peas…"
• Red flag: "Corn, corn gluten meal, chicken by-product meal, soy flour…"

The distinction matters. Corn and soy are cheap filler carbohydrates that your dog or cat's digestive system is not designed to efficiently process. They're in the food to add bulk and keep production costs down — not to nourish your pet.

Understand the "Meal" Difference

"Chicken meal" is actually more protein-dense than fresh chicken because the moisture has been removed. So seeing "chicken meal" in position two after fresh chicken is perfectly fine — it means you're getting a lot of concentrated protein. What you want to avoid is unnamed meals: "poultry meal" or "meat meal" with no species identified means it could be rendered from any source.

The Preservative Problem

Kibble has to last on shelves for months or years. That requires preservation. There are two categories:

• Natural preservatives (good): Mixed tocopherols (vitamin E), rosemary extract, vitamin C. These are what quality brands use.
• Synthetic preservatives (avoid): BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin. BHA and BHT are listed as possible carcinogens by the National Institutes of Health. Ethoxyquin was originally developed as a pesticide. You'll find all three in low-quality pet foods.

Marketing Terms That Mean Nothing

These words have no legal or regulatory definition in pet food. They are marketing only:

• "Natural" — means nothing. A food with BHA can still be labeled natural.
• "Premium" or "Ultra Premium" — no standard exists.
• "Human Grade" — only meaningful if the manufacturer has actual USDA certification. Most don't.
• "Holistic" — completely unregulated in pet food.
• "Veterinarian Recommended" — often based on a single paid survey or sponsorship deal.

What to Actually Look For

Here's the shortcut checklist our nutrition team uses when evaluating a new food:

1. Named animal protein in the first position
2. No corn, wheat, or soy in the first five ingredients
3. No BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin anywhere
4. No artificial colors (Red 40, Yellow 5, Blue 2 — your pet doesn't care what color the kibble is)
5. A named fat source (chicken fat, salmon oil — not "animal fat")
6. A short, recognizable ingredient list you could actually pronounce

The brands we carry at Earthwise Pet South Lamar — Farmina, Fromm, Go! Solutions, and others — all pass this checklist. That's why they're on our shelves.